Mechanical Watch’s Jewels: The Key to Timeless Accuracy

Did You Know? Jewels Are the Secret Behind Your Mechanical Watch’s Perfect Tick

Mechanical watches have a dedicated fan base, not only for their lasting appeal but also for the precise engineering and intricacies that go into them. Over 200 tiny parts work in sync to display accurate time, with each part playing a significant role. One component that is often less talked about is the jewels, which contribute to the smooth, buttery performance of mechanical wristwatches. These jewels ensure both accuracy and durability. This article will elaborate on the importance of jewels in watchmaking and reveal some fun facts.

Jewels- More than a Decorative Element

Mechanical watchmaking companies use jewels not only to enhance the watch's aesthetics but also because they serve an important functional purpose. The most frequently used jewels are synthetic sapphires and rubies because of their strength and sturdiness. Jewels play a significant role in reducing friction between the mobile parts of the mechanical wristwatch by acting as low-friction bearings. Once there is less friction between the tiny parts of the mechanical watch, gears can freely rotate around the pivot for years.

Since jewels are capable of enduring high pressure, they are placed on the balance wheel, pallet fork, and escapement aiming at minimizing friction and extending the productive years of a luxury mechanical watch.

The Journey of Jewels: How They Became Essential in Watchmaking

Jewels paved the way for luxury mechanical watches in the early 1700s. Swiss watchmakers were the first ones to integrate gems like sapphires, rubies, and diamonds into their timepieces. Since procuring the original gemstones was both technical and difficult, the initial mechanical watches were very expensive. 

Today, synthetic gems are widely used to replicate the strength and durability of original gemstones without the high cost. This allows individuals to enjoy best budget mechanical watches that still offer precision and accuracy.

How Jewels Function Inside a Mechanical Watch

The placement of a jewel in any mechanical wristwatch depends on the points where friction occurs most. Here are the key spots where jewels are deployed:

Hole Jewels

These jewels have a central hole and serve as bearings for pivots and axles, enabling gears to rotate freely with minimum friction.

Cap Jewels

Cap jewels are crucial for shock protection as they restrict the vertical movement of rotating parts, safeguarding the watch’s movement from damage.

Pallet Jewels

These jewels are usually found on the pallet forks' ends to regulate energy transfer by interacting with the escape wheel.

Roller Jewels

These jewels, placed on a roller table, transmit force from the escape wheel to the balance wheel.

Impulse Jewels

These are placed within the escapement mechanism and help regulate the energy released from the mainspring, ensuring smooth ticking.

The Number of Jewels in a Mechanical Watch Matters

Every mechanical watch features a different number of jewels depending on its design. A standard mechanical watch for men typically has 17 jewels, which is considered fully jeweled. These watches have jewels in all areas prone to friction, ensuring accurate timekeeping.

Some high-end mechanical watches feature 21 or more gemstones to support additional complications, such as chronographs or moon phases. These extra jewels provide smooth operation of complex parts.

More Jewels, Better Watch? Debunking the Myth

While jewel count is often associated with performance, more jewels don't always mean better. Craftsmanship and build quality are much more important. A well-crafted 17-jewel watch from a reputable brand can outperform a poorly made 21-jewel watch.

Fun and Interesting Facts About Watch Jewels

Synthetic rubies have more uses: Both mechanical watches and laser technology use synthetic rubies because of their shared chemical properties.

Organic rubies were once the standard: Initially, mechanical watches used natural gemstones, making them extremely expensive. Today, synthetic technology has reduced costs for luxury mechanical watches.

More jewels don't always add value: Some classic watches displayed extra jewels for advertising purposes without providing real functionality, making them unnecessary.

Durability of synthetic rubies: Synthetic rubies are so durable that they can last for hundreds of years, even if other components wear out.

Diamonds before rubies: Diamonds were the first gemstones used in mechanical watches before rubies became the industry standard.

Do Quartz Watches Use Jewels?

Jewels are essential for mechanical automatic watches for men to reduce friction. Although quartz watches are battery-powered, they still use jewels to ensure durability. A typical quartz watch may use 5-7 jewels for precision and smooth ticking.

Wrapping Up: Jewels are Fundamental to Watch Performance

Despite their small size, jewels play a huge role in maintaining the smooth operation of mechanical watches. Whether you own a skeleton mechanical watch or a luxury mechanical watch, the jewels inside protect the components and ensure accurate timekeeping. What's more important than the number of jewels is the overall build quality and craftsmanship.

Back to blog